Overview
Hanger 18, a secluded bouldering area perched high above Haycock Mountain,
offers an excellent getaway for easy, moderate, or difficult bouldering. This
area is a sub-section of Haycock Mountain, a bouldering destination at Lake
Nockamixon near Doylestown. On average, the landings here are a bit better
than the main areas on the north side of the mountain. This area offers a
more concentrated spot with a lot of boulders near each other.
The rock type here is Triassic Diabase, a unique stone found throughout the
“Diabase belt”, a region that extends from NJ to central PA. This
characteristic rock type offers smooth slabs, micro crimps, and unique sculpted
boulders with unlimited shapes and sizes. This milieu of rock encompasses
a small area with many other boulders penetrating the nearby interior.
The problems here range from V0- to V9. Landings are somewhat good—for
Haycock standards anyway--but bring a crashpad. I also recommend a supply
of water. The summer months here can resemble the Amazon so expect to find
heavy vegetation and humid sticky conditions—and I don’t mean
sticky as in good friction. Tics are also abundant in this part of the state;
check yourself after every outing.
Directions
For a long time Hanger 18 was shrouded in as much mystery as Area 51 in New
Mexico. Now a lot more attention has been drafted to this area.
Find State Route 563 just south of Quakertown and drive towards Lake Nockamixon
State Park. About 4 miles from the junction of Rt. 313 and 563 turn left onto
Harrisburg School Road (two miles before the trun for the main Haycock areas).
Make a right onto Kinzler Road and locate a stop sign where a paved road begins
after the gravel. Locate a small lot on the left just past an overpass. Park
here and hike the obvious trail to the boulders. Note: another lot is just
a bit farther down the road if the small lot is full.
First Area
This is the first series of climbable rock. It is easily located by two boulders
on the left and right side of the hiking trail.
1. Unnamed V1
From a sit start climb the nice face just left of the right corner. This boulder
is on the left side of the trail.
2. Unnamed V2
On the downhill side of the boulder on the right side of the approach trail
climb the left face.
3. Duck Dive V0
Climb the easy slab at the boulders right side.
4. Unnamed V0
Start on the face and traverse the lip.
5. Unnamed V1
Start on crimps and climb the center of the face.
6. Nami V3
Climb sidepulls right of the previous line.
7. Over the Falls V9
Climb the overhanging arete.
Second Area
Hike farther up the trail and you will come to some boulders and talus. The
next problems start on the boulders to the left.
8. Unnamed V5
In the center of the boulder’s uphill face, climb to the top from a
sit start.
9. Pocket Arete V3
A classic at its grade. Climb the pockets on the arete on the boulder above
the previous route.
10. Roof V3
Climb the center of the roof on the boulder to the right of the previous boulder.
11. Of Mice and Men V7 R
A pad is recommended. SDS and climb to the right of and around the roof to
a seam in the face.
12. Rodeo Arete V4 R
A spicy problem. That climbs the boulder right of the previous problem.
13. Cave Crack V4
From a sit start on the cave right of the previous problem, Climb out the
cave.
14. Bubblegum V3
Right of the cave climb a seam from a sit start.
15. Unnamed V0+
Climb the problem just right of the previous problem.
16. The Prow V3
Climb the obvious prow above the boulder the previous problem is on.
17. The Ubliette V4 X
SDS and climb the arete right of The Prow.
18. The Pit V3
Climb the pit at the right side of the boulder.
19. Unnamed V2
Climb slightly right of the previous problem.
20. Unnamed V2
Climb from a big hold on the boulder below the previous problems and top out
near the corner.
21. Black Angus V8
Worth coming to this area for this problem. Climb the right-slanting seam
in the center of the boulder.
22. Gumball V4
Climb the left arete of the boulder.
23. Unnamed V2
On the boulder downhill form the previous problems climb the the right side
of the boulder.
24. Meeker V8
On the boulder way down the trail from Black Angus, climb the overhanging
section of rock.
25. Slab Arete V2
Climb the obvious arete.
26. Slab V6
Climb the slab left of the arete.
27. Steak Knife V6
Climb the face on the backside of the boulder.
